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Warriors Wearing Silk
Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Archaeology and Ancient History, Archaeology.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-2250-0463
2023 (English)In: Vikings in the Mediterranean: Proceedings of an International Conference Co-organized by the Norwegian, Swedish, and Danish Institutes at Athens, Athens, 27-30 November 2019 / [ed] Neil Price; Marianne Hem Eriksen; Carsten Jahnke, Athens: Norwegian Institute at Athens , 2023, p. 223-240Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Silk in Viking Age burials has captured the interest of archaeologists and textile researchers since the first fragments were identified during the late 19th century. The delicate and exotic fabric connected Scandinavia to long-distance trade routes and provided a fundamentally different addition and unexpected golden lining to the cloth culture that was dominated by wool and linen fabrics. The archaeological material is highly fragmentary with few preserved larger pieces, and is dominated by fabric cut into long strips with little consideration for the pattern. At times, this has led to a simplified view in which the silk has been reduced to being purely ornamental and an expression of high social standing, wealth, and long-distance trade connections. The study is a reflection on the intangible values that surrounded silk in the silk-producing regions and the extent to which these ideas accompanied the fabric into Scandinavian society. Using the two sites of Birka and Valsgärde as a starting point, I examine the Scandinavian context of silks, their possible origin, and the trade routes of silk to Scandinavia. Although silk is present in various contexts, my focus is on the martial sphere of society, in which the need to express affiliation, status, and rank was fundamental, and clothing offered an opportunity to do so. Subsequently, I discuss some of the martial connotations of silk in its regions of origin and explore how these ideas may have been materialised in the silk itself. By exploring the biographies of the silk, and the ideas, cultures, and people that shaped them on their path to the north, I argue that part of the silk material in Viking-Age Scandinavia represents an intellectual import of the Byzantine, and Arabic, practice of warriors wearing silk.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Athens: Norwegian Institute at Athens , 2023. p. 223-240
Keywords [en]
Vikings, warriors, silk, trade, intellectual import
National Category
Archaeology
Research subject
Archaeology
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-507188ISBN: 978-618-85360-4-3 (print)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:uu-507188DiVA, id: diva2:1778989
Conference
Vikings in the Mediterranean, No­vem­ber 27-30, 2019, Athens, Greece
Projects
The Viking Phenomenon
Funder
Swedish Research Council, 2015-00466Available from: 2023-07-03 Created: 2023-07-03 Last updated: 2023-07-03Bibliographically approved

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Hedenstierna-Jonson, Charlotte

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Total: 547 hits
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Citation style
  • apa
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More styles
Language
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Output format
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