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In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
Oriflame Skin Res Inst, S-11121 Stockholm, Sweden..
Oriflame R&D Ltd, Bray, Co Wicklow, Ireland..
Oriflame R&D Ltd, Bray, Co Wicklow, Ireland..
Oriflame Skin Res Inst, S-11121 Stockholm, Sweden..
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2015 (English)In: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, ISSN 0142-5463, E-ISSN 1468-2494, Vol. 37, 41-46 p.Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Synopsis ObjectiveAcetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins invivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study. MethodTwo separate double-blind vehicle-controlled invivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness. ResultsTwelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient. ConclusionIn this study, we showed the invivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base. Resume ObjectifL'acide aspartique acetyle (A-A-A) a ete identifie en utilisant la technologie de puces a ADN combine a une analyse en connectivity mapping' (Cmap), pour ces potentielles proprietes anti-age. A-A-A a la capacite d'augmenter la regeneration cellulaire et d'inhiber l'expression des MMP, ainsi que reduire la rigidite des fibroblastes en depolymerisant le reseau d'actine. Les etudes d'absorption cutanee ont montre une tres bonne biodisponibilite tant dans l'epiderme que le derme et les etudes de securite on confirme une tres bonne tolerance cutanee de A-A-A. Dans cette etude, nous avons cherche a demontrer que A-A-A pouvait stimuler la synthese des proteines de la matrice extra-cellulaire ainsi qu'ameliorer les proprietes viscoelastiques de la peau humaine en procedant a une double etude clinique, par immunohistochimie et biophysique sur volontaires. MethodesLes deux etudes on ete realisees en double aveugle contre placebo avec une emulsion H/E contenant 1% A-A-A. L'etude histologique a ete realisee sur 16 femmes volontaires (>55ans) presentant des signes de photoveillissement sur l'avant-bras durant une periode de 12 jours sur l'expression du collagene IV (COLIV) et de la fibrilline-1. Dans la seconde etude, les proprietes biomecaniques de la peau ont ete evaluees dans un panel de 16 femmes (>45ans) utilisant le Cutometre MPA580 et en mesurant le parametre F4, valeur representant specifiquement la fermete de la peau, apres l'application topique de produits durant pour 28 jours. Pour cette etude A-A-A (1%) a ete compare, en plus du placebo, a une formulation contenant 0.1% de retinol. ResultatsApres 12 jours d'application topique de 1% A-A-A, nous avons pu demontre une augmentation significative de l'expression de COLIV et de la fibrilline respectivement 13% et 6% par rapport au placebo. L'application de 1% A-A-A et 0,1% de retinol ont permis de pour reduire significativement F4 apres 28 jours de traitement respectivement de 15.8% et 14.7%. Aucune difference significative n'a ete trouvee entre le retinol et A-A-A. Cependant, seul A-A-A presentait une ameloration significative sur la fermete de la peau, ce qui confime le benefice apporte par A-A-A comme actif stimulant le raffermissement de la peau. ConclusionDans cette etude, nous avons montre l'efficacite de 1% A-A-A a la fois invivo sur l'expression des proteines (fibrilline et collagene IV) et sur un parametre clinique specifiquement lie a la fermete de la peau. Ces deux etudes confirment que l'acide acetyl-aspartique a un fort potentiel en tant qu' agent anti-age pouvant aussi etre considere comme un ingredient cosmeceutique' repondant aux besoins des consommateurs en demande de produits cosmetiques a efficacite prouvee.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2015. Vol. 37, 41-46 p.
Keyword [en]
ageing, collagen IV, cosmeceutical, Cutometer, extracellular matrix, fibrillin-1, photoageing
National Category
Dermatology and Venereal Diseases
URN: urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-264032DOI: 10.1111/ics.12250ISI: 000360922300008PubMedID: 26132508OAI: oai:DiVA.org:uu-264032DiVA: diva2:859411
Available from: 2015-10-07 Created: 2015-10-05 Last updated: 2015-10-07Bibliographically approved

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