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  • 1.
    Aneer, Cecilia
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies. Uppsala Univ, Uppsala, Sweden..
    Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and Trends in Textile and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World2015In: Textile History, ISSN 0040-4969, E-ISSN 1743-2952, Vol. 46, no 2, 279-280 p.Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 2.
    Candréus, Cecilia
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    The Use of Printed Designs in 17th-Century Embroidery - Layers of Transfer and Interpretation2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, 191-204 p.Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 3.
    Candréus, Cecilia
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    En svensk verkstad för utländska lyxvaror: De kungliga pärlstickarna vid Gustav I:s hov 1523-15602013In: Historisk Tidskrift (S), ISSN 0345-469X, Vol. 133, no 4, 587-620 p.Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Producing foreign splendor in domestic workshops: The royal embroiderers at the court of King Gustav I Vasa of Sweden 1523-1560

    A European Renaissance monarch was expected to live up to the standards of his peers. Dressed in rich apparel the regent aimed to create an image of magnificent kingship. In order to accommodate the need for opulent dress, it was necessary to have access to artisans working in different specialist trades. One such specialist trade was the embroiderers. This article investigates the work made in the Swedish royal embroidery workshop during the reign of King Gustav I (r. 1523-1560). Research questions focus on the production of embroidered dress. The number of artisans, their background and the organization of work are studied in relation to the clothes described in royal inventories and wardrobe accounts. The rise of a large royal embroidery workshop emerged gradually during the near 40 year-reign of Gustav I. The recruitment of foreign artisans, mainly from Germany and France, is seen in the growing numbers of embroiderers employed at court. The skills of these foreign artisans were passed on to Swedish apprentices in the workshop. By the time of the King's death, in 1560, more than ten embroiderers were employed on a full time basis. The workshop had then approached its peak in terms of size and would only increase slightly during the reign of Gustav's son Erik XIV. An overview of embroidered dress belonging to the members of the royal family 1539-1559 shows shifts in the use of different types of garments and embroidery techniques. The clothes described both in inventories and wardrobe accounts correspond to contemporary portraiture. This indicates that the Swedish royal embroidery workshop had capacity to supply the Vasa court with fashionable outfits. Furthermore, there is no evidence of imported garments having been more than a supplement to domestic production.

  • 4.
    Candréus, Cecilia
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Med hundra år av erfarenheter: modern textilforskning på gammal väg och nya stigar2014In: De kyrkliga kulturarven: aktuell forskning och pedagogisk utveckling / [ed] Emilie Karlsmo, Jakob Lindblad och Henrik Widmark, Uppsala: Uppsala universitet, 2014, 107-115 p.Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 5.
    Candréus, Cecilia
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Hantverkstradition och individuella tillämpningar av en broderiteknik2015In: Konstnärlig kultur: Agnes Geijer och textilforskningen / [ed] Margareta Nockert, Uppsala: Upplandsmuseet , 2015, 183-196 p.Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 6.
    Dahrén, Lena
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Printed Pattern Books for Early Modern Bobbin-made Borders and Edgings2013In: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, ISSN 0023-3609, E-ISSN 1651-2294, Vol. 82, no 3, 169-190 p.Article in journal (Refereed)
  • 7.
    Dahrén, Lena
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Med kant av guld och silver2011In: Garde Robe årsbok 2011, Garde Robe , 2011, 74-79 p.Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
  • 8.
    Dahrén, Lena
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Folkliga knypplingar i jämförelse med knypplingar av guld och silver2015In: Konstnärlig kultur: Agnes Geijer och textilforskningen / [ed] Margareta Nockert, Uppsala: Upplandsmuseet , 2015, 1, 243-262 p.Chapter in book (Other academic)
  • 9.
    Dahrén, Lena
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Fashioning the Early Modern Swedish Nobility - mirrored in preserved 17th-century liturgical textiles2014In: Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and Trends in Textile and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World / [ed] T Engelhardt Mathiasen, M-L Nosch, M Ringgaard, K Toftegaard and M Venborg Pedersen, Oxbow Books, 2014, 1, 105-118 p.Chapter in book (Refereed)
  • 10.
    Dahrén, Lena
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Med kant av guld och silver...: En studie av knypplade bårder och uddar av metall 1550-16402010Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

     

    The study examines bobbin-made borders and edgings in gold and silver during the period 1550-1640.

     

    The aim of the thesis is to study the technique of bobbin made lace and to place it in a historical, social and economic context. This is done by describing and analyzing samples of bobbin made lace in gold and silver manufactured during the period 1550-1640 and giving a picture of production, procurement, use and reuse of bobbin made lace.

     

    The divided aim implies that the thesis has two paths. The earlier chapters investigate production, dealing with equipment, pattern books, techniques and patterns. The analysis and interpretation has its anchorage in deeply established practical knowledge and experience of bobbin lace making. The later chapters, dealing with procurement, use and reuse, are based on studies of portrait archives and preserved artefacts.

     

    The study is built on object-based and archival research alongside portrait studies.  The primary sources are bobbin-made borders and edgings preserved on ecclesiastical textiles in Sweden, documentation from the Swedish Royal accounts, and dress and portraits found in European collections.

     

  • 11.
    Dahrén, Lena
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Dentelle, mode et transparence. Lace, fashion and transparency.: "Folklore bobbin made borders compared to bobbin made bordersa nd edgings of gold and silver in the Fashion of Early Modern Time"2012In: Dentelle, mode et transparence. Lace, fashion and transparency: "Folklore bobbin made borders compared to bobbin made bordersa nd edgings of gold and silver in the Fashion of Early Modern Time", Bryssel, 2012Conference paper (Other academic)
  • 12.
    Holmberg, Annelie
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Masters and Apprentices of Textiles Craft2013In: Techne series: Research in sloyd education and crafts science. A, ISSN 1238-9501, E-ISSN 1893-1774, Vol. 20, no 3, 20-32 p.Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This article describes how the craftsmen at the workroom at Handarbetets vänner, Stockholm, learned their craft skills during the years 1948‒2012. What this knowledge consisted of and how the apprentices’ knowledge grows into skillfulness. Interviews with 15 weavers and embroiderers who have worked during the time period form the empirical material. The period of time was chosen according to the informants ́ times of employment.

    The strategies for learning are affected by dialogue between the craftsmen, both a verbal and a silent dialogue. The dialogue is an important part of the learning even though the making is central. The workroom forms its own way of making textile art, a way of doing that is learned from master to apprentice. In this situated knowledge, the different masters have their own ways of for instance mixing color and material, all corresponding with core values. The learning is also affected by the artistic leader and the artist.

    The learning within the workroom occurs in the making of objects, but never at the cost of the quality of the objects. The core values of the establishments, and the fact that there is a strive to be profitable, makes the circumstances. The collaboration with the artist in creating unique textile art is the primary goal; the learning is something that is taken for granted in order to withhold the competence in the establishment.

  • 13.
    Holmberg, Annelie
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    The Socially Skilled Craftsman2017Conference paper (Other academic)
  • 14. Skoglund, G.
    et al.
    Nockert, Margareta
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Holst, B.
    Viking and Early Middle Ages Northern Scandinavian Textiles Proven to be made with Hemp2013In: Scientific Reports, ISSN 2045-2322, Vol. 3, 2686- p.Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Nowadays most plant textiles used for clothing and household are made of cotton and viscose. Before the 19th century however, plant textiles were mainly made from locally available raw materials, in Scandinavia these were: nettle, hemp and flax. It is generally believed that in Viking and early Middle Ages Scandinavia hemp was used only for coarse textiles (i.e. rope and sailcloth). Here we present an investigation of 10 Scandinavian plant fibre textiles from the Viking and Early Middle Ages, believed to be locally produced. Up till now they were all believed to be made of flax. We show that 4 textiles, including two pieces of the famous Overhogdal Viking wall-hanging are in fact made with hemp (in three cases hemp and flax are mixed). This indicates that hemp was important, not only for coarse but also for fine textile production in Viking and Early Middle Ages in Scandinavia.

  • 15.
    Wahlberg, Ingela
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History, Textile Studies.
    Himlen är här: Heaven is here2014Book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
1 - 15 of 15
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