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  • 1.
    Aneer, Cecilia
    Uppsala University, Disciplinary Domain of Humanities and Social Sciences, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History.
    Skrädderi för kungligt bruk: Tillverkning av kläder vid det svenska hovet ca 1600-16352009Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This study examines the manufacturing of tailored men’s garments in the workshops at the Swedish royal court during the reigns of Charles IX and Gustavus Adolphus. The focus of the examination has been on the craft of tailoring and the organization of the court tailors. The study is built on both object-based and archival research. The sources used are the extant royal and livery garments from the Swedish court, produced between 1610 and 1635, and the documents from the royal wardrobe. The latter consist of accounts, warrants and inventories produced during the daily contact between the wardrobe staff and the court tailors. The extant garments, being the material evidence of the prevailing tailoring methods, show choices of materials, construction and tailoring techniques, while the documents show the width of the production to which the garments can be compared.

    The study of the craft is concerned with what was produced, which materials were used, how these functioned in the garments, and what technical solutions were in use. The detailed studies have also brought about questions concerning the technical differences between tailors and seamstresses, the rationality with which the workshops were run, how different aspects of tailoring were valued at the time, and how the tailoring performed at the Swedish court corresponded with European work from the same period.

    The study argues, seen through the craft, that the tailoring workshops at the Swedish court were run as a well organized and highly efficient business. In this standardized amounts and materials, as well as a uniform craftsmanship were used. The tailors running the workshops usually stayed in royal service for many years. They were responsible for the work produced in their workshops as well as for their staff. The study also suggests that the techniques in practice in the tailoring workshops at the Swedish court were not local but belonged to a western European tradition of the craft. Within this frame was a group of established technical solutions that appear to have been typical for the time.

  • 2.
    Holmberg, Annelie
    Uppsala University, Humanistisk-samhällsvetenskapliga vetenskapsområdet, Faculty of Arts, Department of Art History.
    Hantverksskicklighet och kreativitet: Kontinuitet och förändring i en lokal textillärarutbildning 1955-20012009Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The aim in this study is to investigate how the textile subjects in the education of teachers in textiles in Uppsala changed during the period 1955-2001. What has the introduction into the academic, scientific tradition meant for the textile education? The aim is to describe what developments occurred as a result of this influence on the subject area, by analyzing the causes and factors inherent in this process. The period under consideration has been divided into four parts: 1955–1961, 1961–1977, 1977–1988 and 1988–2001.

    The research uses three different sources: documents, interviews and artefacts. The documents include both national and local aspects. To increase the understanding of the work and education 9 interviews have been made with current teacher educators. The artefacts show the transformation of the educators’ intentions and aims, which are expressed in the documents examined, into a physical entity by the students.

    In the investigation of what changes the concept of practical knowledge will be used. Practical knowledge is considered to form the core of textile education. Practical knowledge is assumed to consist of action, professional knowledge and reflection.

    Government directives have influenced textile education. Economical and structural assumptions have shaped how the courses have been run and what elements have been included in these. In the change that gradually occurred during the investigated time, the inherent pride in the subject area and the traditions linked to the courses seems to have slowly diminished. The redefinition of textile education as part of the university minimized the value of the education’s core based in action and domestic history. The continued production of artefacts within the course, suggests that despite the use of scientific and research terminology, the manual skills and action were seen as an essential part of the education.

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